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The Future of the Bar Industry Looks East
I’ve said it before and I’ll keep on saying it: Eastern Europe and the Balkans are the future of the bar industry.
Today I find myself in Moldova, specifically in Chișinău—a capital city of just under one million residents, nestled, much like Rome, across seven hills. It is an ancient and culturally captivating region, surrounded by lush greenery, stunning landscapes, historic villages, and a terroir that feels custom-made for vineyards and producing exceptional wines.
It feels natural to view it as a cultural crossroads: the legacy of the former Soviet Union merges with the proximity of Romania and a clear outlook toward Europe. Here you encounter a warm, humble, and polite community, capable of communicating in two or more languages and increasingly ready to embrace a cosmopolitan identity. It is in this environment that food and drink meet, bringing a breath of fresh air to anyone fortunate enough to explore the city.
The Element of Surprise and the Magic of Covor Bar
On every trip I take—especially when visiting a country for the very first time—I try to leave all preconceptions behind. I let the element of surprise take over, seeking that genuine spark of excitement that can sometimes get lost when you over-prepare.
Upon arriving in the city and checking into a well-known hotel downtown, it didn’t take long to get confirmation that my thesis regarding the new frontier of bars and mixology is very much a reality. Just a short walk from the hotel, I visited one of the standout spots in town: Covor Bar. Tucked away in the basement of a building, this cocktail bar is run by Dmitriy and Octavian—owner and bar manager, respectively. Right away, you feel a level of authentic hospitality that many other high-profile cocktail bars have either forgotten or take for granted.
A young, remarkably well-trained team—the dream of any entrepreneur—welcomes me warmly. They guide me inside to show me the main bar and the speakeasy room hidden behind a bookcase. This clever setup doubles the seating capacity on busier nights—and trust me, that happens often here!
Balanced drinks are served by a seamlessly coordinated team that takes time to share the story behind each menu item with every guest. They turn out hundreds of cocktails during service, paired with excellent bar food. As I usually do, I stayed to observe the room’s dynamics: guests were clearly enjoying themselves, comfortably ordering 2 or 3 drinks each. Crucially, patrons stay just long enough to allow for efficient table turnover, achieving 2 or 3 complete seating cycles in a single evening.
Over the following days, Dmitriy and Octavian served as my local guides, showing me around and explaining how rapidly the city has evolved in recent years. They shared how the local bar scene, though still modest in scale, is making its mark with high-quality concepts, and how tourism is growing steadily—all while navigating the day-to-day challenges of a country undergoing such rapid transformation.
Specialty Coffee and the City’s Trendy Side
When it comes to coffee culture, the specialty coffee trend is thriving here just as it is across much of the globe.
Just a few steps before reaching Covor Bar, I happened to step into Amor Amar, a coffee shop that transforms into a bar by night. On weekends, starting early in the morning, it attracts a young, stylish crowd for great coffee and delicious pastries, accompanied by DJ sets and collaborative events with neighboring shops.
Monumental Cellars and Ancestral Landscapes
And what about the wine and food? Well… in Moldova, wine is serious business.
If you ever find yourself in the area, a half-hour drive outside Chișinău brings you to Cricova Winery: the largest underground cellar network on the planet. A labyrinth of subterranean tunnels plunging to depths of -100 meters and spanning over 120 kilometers, where thousands of bottles and barrels are aged, stored, and managed. It also houses historic private collections belonging to high-profile figures and collectors with major investments in fine wines. Local lore even has it that this underground network is so vast it reaches all the way beneath the capital… incredible.
If you have time for a day trip out in the countryside for lunch, I highly recommend visiting the Butuceni area—a UNESCO-protected site located inside a canyon surrounded by towering hills. It’s a picturesque village filled with traditional houses, eco-resorts, and authentic local eateries.
Take a walk up toward the Orthodox church perched atop the cliff and look closely at the ground beneath your feet: you’ll notice you are walking on crumbly limestone packed with fossilized seashells and ancient coral. That’s right—remnants dating back millions of years to when this entire region was covered by the prehistoric Sarmatian Sea. This soft, workable stone enabled past generations to carve out remarkable cave churches and monasteries directly into the surrounding cliffs.
Authentic Flavors and Countryside Hospitality
Be sure to stop by the small local restaurants to sample the various types of plăcinte (traditional stuffed flatbreads), hearty soups, polenta served with meat, local sausages, cured meats, and cheeses. The cuisine leans heavily on meat and vegetables, often enhanced with flavorful sauces, garlic, and onions—honest, delicious food packed with character.
Don’t miss the chance to buy local products from the friendly older women at the capital’s massive central market. It’s a bustling hub where hundreds of locals shop daily for fresh fruit, vegetables, cheeses, meat, and honey brought straight from farms in the countryside.
Future Outlook: Moldova Is on the Map!
In conclusion, Chișinău and Moldova prove that genuine hospitality and great taste run deep here, earning a well-deserved spotlight in the evolving international bar scene.
I can’t wait to return in a year to see how this growth continues.
I’m certain we’ll soon see the team from Covor Bar featured at major international events, proving that Moldova has arrived—and is thriving!
Diego Ferrari
